It’s said that Russia is only herself in the winter. Without the snow, ice, and bitter cold, part of its canvas lies empty, important characteristics that have defined a nation, through a fascinating history of bleakness and triumph. Wandering around the white city for a few days and coming across the magnificent statue of Peter the Great, or Saint Basil’s Cathedral, or the surprising grandness of the subway stations, was like a fantastical snowy dream; truly a stranger in a strange land. This place was foreign to me, in every sense of the word, during a time when I was still learning and adapting to navigation and getting my bearings, whether on public transportation or using signage that was totally incomprehensible. I got lost a few times, but this exposed me to just how friendly the locals could be, who offered help every time, both of us engaged in verbal and physical theatrics as we tried to communicate around our language barrier. I would leave this city feeling like I had only scratched the surface. But I was about to go deeper, because I came here to experience the single longest train ride in the world, the Trans-Siberian, which begins (or ends) in Moscow, and probes for hundreds of miles into the frozen tundra of Siberia. I was writing in a journal at this time, something that I have not done a lot of, so what follows is a reproduction of some rare (and not particularly good) writings while abroad:
“Fri, 4am.” Woke up before 430am alarm clock as usual. Slept surprisingly well. Surprising that I actually slept. Bags already packed. Decided to carry on all my things rather than check a bag. I am visiting three separate airports and the likelihood of misplaced luggage is high.
Dad picked me up at 5:30. We got a coffee and went over a reminder checklist on our way to LAX. Good to go.
We made our way to the United Terminal curbside, had my picture taken, shared a hug, and my dad and I went our separate ways.
There was an issue with the self-check-in kiosk so I had to get my boarding pass from a United representative. I was anxious about going through security because of the recent uproar over the newly implemented TSA screening. A passenger has the choice of either a full body scan or a full-body pat down. I was not going to subject myself willingly to excessive radiation so I was prepared to be groped. Surprisingly, there was none of that. I put my bags on the belt for X-ray, walked through the metal detector and that was it. Kewl. Now I’m seated at gate 76 waiting for my flight to New York. Two more hours. *Sigh
Sun 8:45pm. Friday and Saturday were spent mostly in the air. The flight to New York was uneventful and very quick. I read and listened to my iPod. Once I was at JFK, I had to go through the security screening again to access my connecting flight to Moscow and once again I did not have to choose between a full body scan or a pat down.
The layover was 4 hours. I watched the Transaero airplane arriving late, but the flight was barely half full, allowing me to stretch out and sleep for almost the entire 9 hour flight.
The plane landed safely and the passengers had to exit via mobile staircase outside the airport. I was anticipating the bite of the cold weather once I stepped outside and I was not let down. Very cold and cloudy. The passengers were transiting to Domodedovo a short distance away I went through customs, exchanged some dollars for rubles, 25 to 1, and then made my way to the aeroexpress train to hitch a ride to Moscow.
I exited the airport with my train ticket right as the train was pulling up. The view from the train was mostly of freeway and forest. snow everywhere.
The train arrived at Pavletsky station 45min later. After a quick question to a helpful metro attendant regarding direction, I was able to make my way to the appropriate metro station, after 3 stops, 1 transfer, then 1 more stop. I noticed that all the main postings were well in Russian text rather than the English phonetic text; something I should have anticipated (I was able to get a better metro map of the Godzilla Hostel)
Yeah, that hostel … had a bit of trouble finding it after I got off the metro. I thought I had a good directional sense of where it was so I completely ignored a map kiosk right outside the station. There was a ‘ticking clock’ because of a Bolshoi Opera I was to attend at 7pm. It was about 6pm when I exited the metro and after about an hour of walking where I thought the hostel was, back tracking crossing the same crosswalk three separate times asking a few people for directions (who weren’t helpful) and double checking my laptop to look at the map (which wasn’t helpful because it wouldn’t zoom all the way). I finally went back to the Kiosk and found where the hostel was located in about 30seconds, haha.
At least I learned something.
The hostel was close by, I had just go mixed up my North & West, and I arrived at Godzilla and checked in around 7:30pm.
The clerk was helpful in locating the Bolshoi Theatre along with the accompanying metro steps.
Hostels always have great metro/city maps. The clerk looked online and discovered the Opera was three hours, so interestingly I too would be able to watch part of it.
So I dropped my bags off and headed off to the Metro. The metro stations are all deep underground and are Moscow attractions in themselves: Most of the stations are all marbled, some have sculptures, statues, stained-glass, or mosaics.
Once outside I took a left and came upon the entrance to Red Square. I looked at the map and discovered I should have gone straight instead. I crossed a street, went under a street and crossed another street and came upon the Bolshoi. It was very large, white, and beautiful. Unfortunately, the original Bolshoi is undergoing renovations so all performances are being shown right next door in another theatre.
I entered the theatre a little after 8pm.. I checked my coat and bought some binoculars and headed to the top floor. An attendant showed me the way, but I stood off to the side in the dark until intermission.
The theatre was very classic; small, intimate, 3-story, horse-shaped seating, chandeliers around the outside and one large chandelier hanging from the ceiling in the middle.
Some people left after the latest intermission so I was able to get a seat. The show was good, even though I dozed off a few times for a second or two.
The set pieces were elaborate and moveable. The costume was detailed and the singing was great. Pretty cool seeing my first opera at a theatre in Moscow. I was going to leave a little early but the last attendant told me, “Not till 10.” I knew that but I decided to stay till the end which I’m glad I did. The curtain call was cool and it was interesting.
The Russian audience claps differently than what I’m used to. It’s a slower clap rather than a speedy clap like in the US.
After the show I got my coat and wanted to see if the lady would ask for the binoculars, she did. No souvenir.
Back at the hostel I took a shower and went to sleep. Unfortunately, one of my roommates snored at about 80db so I took refuge in the TV room. Took one advil to calm my headache.
Woke up at around 12noon Sunday morning. Went to the popular Izmailovskaya market and walked around. I bought a flask/shot glass set for myself (seemed appropriate), a Lenin pin and a few magnets for the family.
I had some lunch at the market too. Lamb, salmon, bread, onions, tomatoes and tea. Very good. Also had to ask the man I paid for my change back. Honest mistake, haha.
Next I went to the red square, took a ton of pictures. Then I walked around the outside of the Kremlin and took more pictures.
It was getting pretty darn cold so I went inside the GUM, a huge three story shopping mall right along the red square and walked around. The place was very festive and Christmas-y. Very cool.
Made my way back to the hostel where I plan to relax the rest of the night. It’s times like this I wish I was with someone to go out with. But it’s cold. I’m tired, and I’m content to reading a book.
Tues. 11:30 am. I’m about to check out of Godzilla but will hang out in the TV room for a few hours to kill time till my 9:35pm Transsiberian departure.
Yesterday was more sight-seeing, woke up around noon and headed out first to see Christ Cathedral, the biggest in Russia I believe. It was very beautiful. I was about to leave when I saw some a huge statue in the distance, which turned out to be of Peter the Great.
So I walked a short distance and got some great pics of the tall humongous statue. I then went on a nearby balcony and took some good photos overlooking the Kremlin in the distance.
Then I left for Sparrow Hills which overlooks the entire city of Moscow. Along the way the subway stopped at the Gorky Station which overlooked Gorky Park, the park looked amazing covered in snow. I would have liked to go explore that area but unfortunately my schedule was tight. I can’t see it all.
And I was walking along the gate of Moscow University looking for Sparrow Hills but decided to give up and pass on it since it was really foggy or very I wasn’t certain of the exact location.
My next destination was Arbat Street. The Arbat pedestrian street is lined on either side by all sorts of shops & restaurants & street vendors. It wasn’t very crowded.
Next I went to victory park which had a huge obelisk. Took some good pictures. The park commemorated WWII vets.
Then I left for the Sky Bar which is located on the 31st floor of this huge tower near the city center. The place was very swanky and the views immaculate. I had a Transsiberian cocktail and a Black Rain cocktail. Both drinks were $28 a piece but they were amazing. Overall it was a great experience.
Riding back down the elevator was like coming down from a high, literally and figuratively.
On my way back to the hostel I bought a Russian beer which tasted like … beer. I spent some time in the TV Room and chatted with other guests. One had just come from the Transsiberian from Beijing & he had a great time. Promising!
Went to bed.
The next morning (Tuesday), woke up early and headed out to grab some eats at the Metro station. I had an interesting wrap with chicken, cranberry, and an unidentifiable sauce. On the way back to the hostel I bought some Russian Vodka, so we’ll see what all the fuss is about.
Now I’m packed and ready for my train ride to Beijing in about 9 hours.
